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Madre
Mexican
In a whitewashed colonial house, Miguel Bahena and Carolina Verdugo run a neighborhood restaurant where the kitchen commands the rear and the mood stays unhurried. Sesame-crusted shrimp arrives in a broth of shrimp stock, nopal, and onion; duck breast wears its mole coloradito like a burnished coat. The rooms are small and intimate, the cooking confident without pretense.
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