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Ultramarinos Marín
The storefront looks weathered, the menu sparse, but chef Borja García's open kitchen at this asador commands a waiting list through sheer technique—plancha work and wood-fire mastery learned at Etxebarri and Noma applied to langoustines, pork shanks, and grilled potatoes with almost monastic restraint. Breakfast and lunch only, product-driven Catalan cooking that treats simplicity as an uncompromising standard.