The Best Bars in Nishi-Azabu

Pronounced "teh-zeh," this Tokyo backstreet cocktail bar keeps nearly 3,000 books on every available surface, and regulars treat the shelves like a lending library while the bartenders riff on classics or invent something on the spot. Dark wood panelling, retro leather couches, and dim lighting make it feel like a very well-read living room. Curry dishes appear on the menu too, which somehow feels right. Been around since the late nineties, and the neighbourhood clearly never found a reason to leave.

1. The 50 The 50 Discovery

A sake bar up a flight of stairs in Nishiazabu, where the sign reads "strawberry meeting," a translation of ichigo ichie that sounds like a very polite jam session. The list runs past 200 bottles, from sparkling to cloudy doburoku, plus a few made with local breweries that you won't find elsewhere. The egg in black squid ink mayonnaise looks like a river rock until you crack it, which is the whole bit.

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