Don Alfonso 1890 San Barbato

The Iaccarino family's southern Italian fine dining tradition lands in Basilicata, inside a resort that also houses a pizzeria and a Japanese restaurant, which gives you some sense of the ambition here. The room is elegant without being stiff, and the kitchen runs three tasting menus built around local ingredients handled with the kind of Mediterranean restraint the family has refined across decades. The wine list is serious.

One honor, in evidence: