The Best Seafood Near Brighton Rocks, by the Record

A former fishmonger's across from an old Victorian fish market, so the address was never really a choice. This is a small, unassuming seafood restaurant where the chef-owner has been quietly refining a set-menu format for years, cooking through courses that lean heavily on understanding the fish rather than dressing it up. He's also working the room himself, which keeps the whole thing from feeling stiff.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

Half fishmonger, half seafood bar, The Sea, The Sea occupies a quiet mews off Sloane Square where the fish does most of the talking. The menu keeps changing and keeps its distance from fuss, letting prime-quality fish and shellfish carry things with minimal backup. Some of the catch is dry-aged for extra depth, which sounds like a trick but shows up on the plate. The terrace works nicely at lunch; inside is calm and unfussy come evening.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant
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