The Best Seafood Near La Table du Fleuve, by the Record

1. Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand

The Gillardeau family, whose oysters appear on menus across France, runs this seafront restaurant in Marennes, which gives the oyster course a certain credibility you can't manufacture. It's a roomy, light-filled dining room with a panoramic terrace for sunset and a suspended fireplace for when the Atlantic wind reminds you what month it is. The menu leans into local catch and shellfish, with the chef folding in spiced, farther-flung influences that keep things from feeling too solemn.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant