The Best Seafood Near Mori, by the Record

Pufferfish, four ways, from a kitchen that's been around forever and takes the licensing of its chefs very seriously, for reasons you already know. This Haeundae outpost is part of a Seoul and Busan chain built entirely around the fish: brown-backed for chew, globe puffer in a spicy stew, yellowfin for sweeter preparations, ocellate served raw. It reads like a taxonomy lesson, but the regulars ordering without looking up suggest it's more of a ritual.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant