The Best Seafood Near Red Light, by the Record

The name is a souvenir from a previous life in St Ives, which tells you most of what you need to know about the menu. This stripped-back seafood spot on Chandos Road anchors itself around oysters, then fans out into things like red mullet with shellfish sauce and a shelf of high-end tinned fish that makes a strong case for itself. Redland's little cluster of good eating surrounds it, and the pricing won't require a sit-down with your accountant.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant