The Best Sushi Near Hearth, by the Record

Diners are told to eat fast, and at a handroll shop this good, that's not a hardship. Temaki Den sits inside The Source market hall in RiNo, its dark palette carving out something moodier than the food-hall format might suggest. The kitchen rolls temaki one at a time, to order, with aburi nigiri on the side for good measure. The nori stays crisp for exactly as long as it needs to, which is the whole point.

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