The Best Sushi Near Hiis, by the Record

Eleven red-upholstered seats wrap an L-shaped counter in a hotel dining room that seats exactly two sittings a night, which tells you everything about the pace. This is an omakase sushi bar, and the chef relocated from Japan to run it himself, walking guests through each course with the kind of unhurried attention that makes a short menu feel like a long evening. A tight list of wines, champagne, and sake rounds things out.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant