The Best Sushi Near Tralia, by the Record

A block from St. Pete's bar strip, this omakase counter keeps things focused: two menus, both built around nigiri, with the chef making confident calls on what goes with what. Koji-fermented ora king salmon brushed with whiskey barrel-aged soy is the kind of detail that tells you plenty about the ambition here. The room is small and the format is fixed, so you give up control at the door and mostly stop minding.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant