The Best Sushi Near sumi, by the Record

An omakase sushi counter in a residential corner of Setagaya where the chef structures the meal like a rakugo performance, light snacks setting the scene before the sushi proper begins. The progression moves from delicate squid through tuna, peaks with gizzard shad, and closes with egg. The chef occasionally breaks the fourth wall with a remark to the room, which is either charming or slightly theatrical depending on your mood.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant