539, Plats Forts

A Japanese-style counter anchors this spare dining room in Puigcerdà, where one chef does everything: cooks, explains each dish, greets guests, and personally sources fish from the Blanes auction and produce straight from local farms. It's a tasting-menu restaurant run entirely solo, which makes the whole operation feel like a magic trick performed at close range. Three menus of varying length rotate constantly, so the meal you get is whatever he felt like building that week.