Aan de Zweth

The Delftse Schie runs right past the windows, which does most of the decorating for this elegant French restaurant outside Delft. Inside, two set menus lean on Mediterranean touches, the kind of place where veal arrives medium-rare alongside asparagus two ways and a glossy jus, and the plating looks like someone cares very much about plating. A waterfront table when the weather cooperates is the obvious move.

Two honors, in evidence: