Acebuche

The name is a tip-off: "acebuche" means wild olive tree, and olive oil runs through this modern restaurant like a through-line. The kitchen is a Franco-Andalusian partnership, literally, a chef from Brittany and a partner from the foot of the Sierra Morena, who channel classic French technique into the produce of Jaén province. Two set menus or à la carte, and when the weather cooperates, the patio terrace is where you want to be.