Al Sorriso

A self-taught cook and her husband, a dining room maître in the old European sense, have been running this Michelin-starred Piedmontese restaurant together long enough to be considered an institution. She builds the classics from seasonal ingredients and deep regional tradition; he handles wine, cheese, and the room with the kind of unhurried precision that hospitality schools try to teach and mostly fail to. Soriso is a small village, which means you are making a deliberate trip.

One honor, in evidence: