Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

The dessert trolley arrives like a formal procession, and the baba is its reason for existing. This is French fine dining at the Dorchester, Alain Ducasse's name on the door and three Michelin stars on record. The kitchen moves between classical technique and something lighter, the way Ducasse has always wanted it, and the service team reads the room with the kind of easy authority that makes a four-hour dinner feel like the obvious way to spend an evening.

One honor, in evidence: