Alcôve

A bow window framing the vineyards and landscaped grounds sets the tone for this Michelin-starred hotel restaurant in Champagne country. The dining room is bright and modern, and the cooking matches that composure: the chef's menu moves with real ambition through smoked fish, delicate meats, and citrus-forward desserts. Lunch runs in a more relaxed, bistronomic register for those not ready to commit to the full performance.

One honor, in evidence: