Andreina

The open hearth and the spit aren't decorative here; they're the kitchen. Housed in a converted farmhouse outside Loreto, Andreina is a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant where the third generation of the family still builds nearly every dish around live fire, with produce from their own garden folding into the smoke. The tasting menus are named Fuoco and Fiamme, which tells you pretty much everything about the priorities.

Two honors, in evidence: