Angeethi by Sagar Massey

An angeethi is the clay grill that's been central to rural Indian kitchens forever, which tells you something about what this suburban Glasgow restaurant is going for. It's an unfussy room where the cooking is regional and traditional, the spicing is confident, and the portions are generous enough that skipping dessert would be a mistake. The Michelin Guide gave it a Bib Gourmand, which tracks for a place where the food does all the talking.

One honor, in evidence: