Aniar

Courses arrive with the chefs, and sometimes a poem, which tells you what kind of Michelin-starred restaurant this is. Aniar is a moody, intimate modern dining room on Dominick Street where the menu is finalized based on what arrived that morning, with west of Ireland producers doing most of the heavy lifting. The cooking plays with contrasts in temperature, texture, and acidity in ways that feel precise without feeling cold.

One honor, in evidence: