Arimasansoh Goshobessho

A ten-room ryokan tucked into the foothills of the Rokko mountains, where a stream runs through the grounds and the hot springs are naturally fed. The buildings are low-slung, the woodwork traditional, the kaiseki dinner formal, and the breakfast conspicuously not. Rooms swap tatami austerity for leather chairs and Western beds, which is either a relief or a compromise depending on who you ask. Hiking with a chef-made bento box is on the table, literally.