As Garzas

Every table faces the Atlantic, but the ones pressed against the picture windows put the cliffs and ocean swell close enough to feel theatrical. This Michelin-starred Galician restaurant on the Costa da Morte is a family operation in the most literal sense, with the chef, his wife, his son, and his son's partner each running a corner of the room. The tasting menu follows the season hard, leaning on whatever the coast gives up.

One honor, in evidence: