Atelier

A Michelin-starred restaurant in the middle of Domodossola where the kitchen reworks Ossola mountain tradition rather than abandoning it, folding local veal and alpine herbs into plates that occasionally pair meat and fish with enough confidence to make you forget that usually goes badly. The family runs the room warmly, and a serious wine list is available by the glass. Lunch shifts to bistrot mode, a little looser, a little cheaper.

One honor, in evidence: