Au Vieux Couvent

The half-timbered building beside the Brunnwasser has been growing its own vegetables and herbs for years, the kitchen garden tended by the chef and his father together. Inside, this Michelin-starred restaurant in the Alsatian countryside runs on local terroir: Rhine fish, Ried game, and whatever the garden is doing that week. The cooking follows the seasons without making a fuss about it, which is perhaps the highest calling of any Bas-Rhin kitchen.

One honor, in evidence: