Auberge Grand'Maison

Sauces are the signature here, which tells you something about how seriously this Michelin-starred inn in rural Brittany takes the classics. The chef, a Breton native, works in the old-fashioned register without apology, and the cooking has the kind of depth and generosity that makes a long drive through the countryside feel like a reasonable life choice. The crêpe flambée at the end is not optional.

One honor, in evidence: