Backmulde

A centuries-old half-timbered house in Ladenburg's Old Town sets the scene for this French-leaning restaurant where the cooking follows the seasons and a blackboard of daily specials keeps things honest. The menu moves between classic French technique and quieter nods to what's current, paired with wines the staff seem to know well. The chef comes out to say hello, which in a room this cosy feels less like theater and more like Tuesday.

One honor, in evidence: