Bamurru Plains

Tented bungalows perch at the edge of Kakadu National Park, where the Mary River floodplain stretches far enough that you stop looking for the fence. Bamurru Plains is a wilderness lodge in the safari mold, Australian chapter, trading the Big Five for saltwater crocs and magpie geese. Wildlife excursions are the whole point, but the central lodge and communal table, stocked with local cooking and serious Australian wine, make coming back inside feel less like a compromise.