Bastion

Candles and a big central bar give this Michelin-starred Kinsale restaurant its low-key warmth, which suits the cooking well. The chef is Scottish-born but leans hard into Irish ingredients, with local seafood doing a lot of the heavy lifting. Dishes are precise without being fussy, and there's a playful streak running through them that keeps things from feeling overly serious. His wife runs the floor, so the whole operation has an intimacy that's hard to fake.