Bergergut

A farmhouse-style restaurant inside the hotel of the same name, out in the Austrian countryside where the silence is almost theatrical. The kitchen runs a different gear depending on the hour, from hearty midday tavern cooking to more polished evening plates built around carefully sourced regional ingredients. The veal from the Mühlviertel region shows up in several forms and makes a case for itself quietly, without any fuss.

One honor, in evidence: