Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Freshly pulled radishes arrive with browned butter before you've looked at a menu, which tells you everything about what Dan Barber is doing at this two-Michelin-starred tasting room on a working farm in the Hudson Valley. The procession that follows is theatrical and farm-obsessed, rooted in whatever the land is doing right now. Crisped linens, fine crystal, and a meal that could end with a tower of milk desserts, because the farm started as a dairy.

Four honors, in evidence: