Boivin

Trout with celeriac purée prepared tataki-style is the dish that signals what kind of restaurant this is: a regional Trentino kitchen that quietly borrows from Korea and Japan without making a fuss about it. The menu shifts with the market, so the specials board does the most interesting work on any given night. Regional wines anchor the list. The Michelin Guide has given it a Bib Gourmand, which tracks for a place this personal and unfussy.

Two honors, in evidence: