Bouffard

A snug lounge up front gives way to a livelier room hung with colorful paintings, and the two halves suit entirely different moods. This modern French restaurant in Mol runs a set menu built around restraint: the chef picks his ingredients carefully and lets them carry the weight, with bold sauces doing the heavy lifting. Scallops, pork cheek, a creamed broth, nothing fussy about any of it.

One honor, in evidence: