Butterfly

A glass-enclosed veranda opens onto the lawn in summer and frames the garden greenery in winter, making the season part of the meal at this Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant outside Lucca. The kitchen runs as a father-and-son operation, balancing old-school comfort with the kind of imaginative plating that keeps things from feeling reverential. The family's warmth carries through to the floor, where service is polished without being stiff.