Caffè Grande - Osteria del Centro

The grill does most of the talking here, turning out meat-forward plates with fish options alongside, and appetisers that don't shy away from tripe and sweetbreads. It's a relaxed osteria occupying an old café that's been around forever, reopened by three partners who kept the classics and the quality ingredients but skipped the dusty atmosphere. A la carte runs generous and straightforward, the kind of menu where you don't need to overthink it.