Carelshaven

The chef keeps a kitchen garden on the grounds of a castle estate and it shows up in every plate, from duck breast finished with mole to sweetbreads brightened with kumquat. This is a fine-dining restaurant with a leafy terrace that looks out over the Twickel estate, the kind of setting that makes French cooking feel like a reasonable response to the surroundings. The menu leans plant-forward without making a manifesto of it.

Two honors, in evidence: