Casa Buono

A Michelin-starred dining room tucked into a small village in the Val Roia, just far enough inland from Ventimiglia that you have to mean it. The kitchen runs a single tasting menu, loosely rooted in Ligurian tradition but mostly doing its own creative thing, and a cheese trolley that reportedly stops traffic. The chef's wife runs the floor with the warmth of someone who genuinely wants you there, which in this region is not a given.