Celler Joan Pàmies

The open fireplace and a corner stacked with fresh vegetables tell you where you are before anyone says a word. This is a Catalan restaurant set inside a large old stone house in Riudoms, where the chef often takes your order himself, which either charms you immediately or makes you nervous about changing your mind. The cooking is rooted in tradition, nudged forward with a contemporary hand, and offered à la carte or through tasting menus that lean on local markets and the fish auction.

One honor, in evidence: