Clay

Earthenware vessels anchor the décor of this converted 17th-century presbytery in the Flemish countryside, and the name was never an accident. Clay is a set-menu restaurant where the chef works in a contemporary French register, pairing things like beef with tarragon and lacquered tongue in ways that feel considered rather than showy. The room is warm and the welcome warmer, the kind of couple-run place where the front of house seems pleased you came.