Clemente

Dinner in a palazzo's old stables, the vaulted ceiling doing most of the decorating. Clemente is a trattoria in the center of Sulmona that keeps its focus strictly on Abruzzo, meaning chitarra pasta made in-house, saffron from Aquila, and mains built entirely around meat. Portions run large, and half-portions are available if you'd like to order more things. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand. Aperitifs happen in a bistro-style side room, which is a civilized arrangement.

One honor, in evidence: