Commando

The building has been standing since before anyone's grandfather was born, and the family running this Mellieħa restaurant has been here nearly as long, once keeping the Royal Marines fed and watered. Exposed brickwork and contemporary furniture split the difference between tavern and dining room, and the Mediterranean menu leans on fresh, simply handled ingredients. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the pappardelle with duck ragù is the dish regulars don't skip.

One honor, in evidence: