Coscolo

Castrillo de los Polvazares is the kind of medieval village where even the parking rules feel like a time warp, so leave the car at the entrance and walk. Coscolo is a regional restaurant built around Cocido Maragato, a centuries-old stew traditionally served backwards, meat before chickpeas before soup. The kitchen smokes and cures its own ingredients on the property, and the chef has quietly claimed the recipe as his own by renaming it on the menu. Michelin Bib Gourmand.

One honor, in evidence: