Courthouse

Exposed brick walls and a vaulted ceiling do a lot of the decorating at this relaxed restaurant in Carrickmacross, where the room fills quickly and stays loud in the best way. The kitchen leans into unglamorous cuts, slow-cooked until they earn their place, with accompaniments that feel thought through rather than tacked on. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand, and the service is the kind that makes you forget you had somewhere else to be.

One honor, in evidence: