Couvert Couvert

Two brothers run this Michelin-starred creative restaurant just outside Leuven, one cooking while the other tends the room, which gives the whole evening an oddly personal charge. The Scandinavian-inflected dining room is calm and spare, the terrace quieter still. A set menu of four to six courses leans on obscure herbs, fruit acidity, and combinations that shouldn't work until they do. A sommelier steers the wine toward pairings as unexpected as the food.