Da Manuela

Berkel slicers near the door announce the priorities at this country trattoria tucked into a small Piedmontese hamlet, where local cured meats, freshwater fish, and snails in several forms are the point. The cheese trolley arrives in force, and the cellar leans toward small regional producers without ignoring the rest of Europe. On a grey winter afternoon, with a fire nearby and risotto incoming, the grayness becomes someone else's problem.

One honor, in evidence: