Daniele Baglieri – Rione Mulino

A pizzeria set among old mills and caves in the center of Modica, where the chef hands each table playing-card-style cards explaining the pizzas before you order. The dough gets a long ferment with wheat germ, and the pies come round, steamed, fried, or oven-dried depending on his mood and yours. It ranks on 50 Top Pizza Italy, which tracks for a place this serious about flour. The wine and beer list holds its own too.