De Kromme Watergang

The kitchen garden sits across the road, the Westerschelde is visible from the window, and by the time dinner arrives the distance between the two feels very short. This is a Michelin-starred French restaurant in rural Zeeland where the chef runs a nose-to-tail kitchen built almost entirely on what the surrounding flatlands and nearby waters can provide. Bold, briny flavors get a precise, refined treatment with the odd exotic note folded in to keep things interesting.

Two honors, in evidence: