De Leuf

A half-timbered farmhouse in the Limburg hills, its dining counter where the chefs open with amuse-bouches the moment you sit down. This is a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant run by a mother-and-children trio, with French technique bent toward Asian intensity through vinaigrettes and sauces that somehow hold both without apologizing for either. The steak tartare with oyster ice cream and caviar is the kind of dish that sounds like a dare and arrives like a statement.