Der Unterwirt

The wood paneling in the more romantic of the two Stube dining rooms has been here since the 13th century, which puts the candlelight in perspective. This is a family-run restaurant in a private house in the South Tyrolean hills, where the chef works Mediterranean influences and a strong lean toward fish into the local Alto Adige framework. A summer terrace and a handful of guestrooms round things out if you'd rather not drive back down.

One honor, in evidence: