Des Trois Tours

A 19th-century mansion on the edge of Fribourg, with a plane-tree terrace that makes the whole thing feel slightly unfair to every other restaurant in the canton. This is refined contemporary French cooking, the kind that earns a Michelin star by pairing Atlantic cod with sea urchin and folding pork into something involving mint and shellfish. The wine list moves easily between Switzerland and France, and the service reads the room without being asked.